1. Decide what you really want
Start with how you will wear the watch. A daily wearer needs a robust case and a movement that is easy to service. A dress watch for occasions can be more delicate. Choose two or three references to research, such as those in our Top 5, rather than browsing at random.
2. Set a total budget
Include the purchase price, any dealer or auction fees, shipping and insurance, taxes where applicable and a service reserve. Many buyers keep a fund of several hundred to a few thousand dollars for servicing a watch after purchase, depending on the movement and complexity.
3. Learn the reference
Read about the reference you want: correct dial text, hands, bezel, crown and case-back details for the production period. Collector forums, brand archives and reputable specialist publications help you identify what is original. Where available, an archive extract from the manufacturer can confirm details of a particular watch.
4. Choose your seller carefully
- Established dealers often offer warranties, returns and servicing.
- Auction houses provide condition reports and provenance but add buyer's fees and rarely accept returns.
- Private sellers and marketplaces can offer good prices but carry the highest risk. Use a secure payment method or escrow.
5. Ask for evidence
- Clear photographs of the dial, case sides, lugs, crown and case back, plus movement photographs
- Service history and invoices
- Box, papers and receipts if they exist
- A video showing the watch running, winding and, for chronographs, starting and stopping
6. Check the details
Look for signs of replaced or refinished parts: mismatched lume colour, uneven printing, over-polished cases, or non-original crowns and crystals. Our guide to authenticity and servicing explains each in detail.
7. Protect yourself at purchase
- Confirm the return policy in writing before payment.
- Avoid bank transfers to unknown private individuals without protection.
- Insure the watch during shipping and after arrival.
- Arrange for a watchmaker to inspect it soon after purchase.
Further reading
- Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie, an educational resource on Swiss watchmaking
- Care, storage and wearing your vintage watch